Updated: November 2025
Your complete guide to understanding the nitrosamine crisis, what it means for your safety, and how to choose keratin products you can trust
In 2024, something alarming happened in the beauty and wellness industry. The European Union discovered that popular keratin hair products contained nitrosamines, chemical compounds linked to cancer and serious health risks.
Suddenly, major international brands faced recalls. Salons pulled products from shelves. Consumers panicked. And rightfully so, because this wasn't a minor issue, it was a fundamental breach of trust.
But here's what's important to understand: not all keratin products are equally at risk.
The danger was concentrated in a specific category. Understanding which products are safe, which are dangerous, and how to verify the difference could protect your health.
Let's break down exactly what happened, why it happened, and most importantly, how to protect yourself moving forward.
What Are Nitrosamines and Why Are They Dangerous?
The Basic Science
Nitrosamines are chemical compounds that form when certain ingredients are processed together, particularly under heat or with specific stabilising agents.
They've been classified as potential carcinogens by major health organisations, including the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC).
The concerning part: Nitrosamines can accumulate in your body over time with repeated exposure.
Health Risks Associated With Nitrosamine Exposure
Potential risks identified in research:
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Increased cancer risk (particularly stomach, oesophageal, and bladder cancers) with chronic exposure
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Reproductive and developmental toxicity
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Organ damage with prolonged exposure
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Mutagenic potential (ability to damage DNA)
Important note: Risk depends on concentration, duration of exposure, and frequency of use.
This is why regulatory agencies set strict safety thresholds rather than banning the substance outright.
The 2024 EU Nitrosamine Investigation: What Actually Happened
The Regulatory Action
In 2024, the European Union ramped up scrutiny of cosmetic products, particularly haircare lines and topical keratin treatments, over nitrosamine contamination.
EU safety threshold set:
50 parts per billion (ppb) maximum in both raw materials and finished products
This was significantly stricter than previous standards, reflecting growing concern about cumulative exposure.
What Products Were Actually Recalled
Critically important: The recalls focused almost entirely on topical keratin treatments, not oral supplements.
Products affected:
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Brazilian blowout treatments and keratin smoothing treatments (applied directly to hair, then heat-sealed)
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Professional salon keratin straightening products
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Topical keratin creams and leave-in treatments
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Numerous products from major international brands
Products NOT affected:
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Oral keratin supplements (like Functional Keratin™)
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Shampoos and conditioners (generally safe)
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Haircare products without direct scalp application
Why Topical Treatments Were the Problem
The danger came from how these products were formulated and processed:
Chemical stabilisation:
Topical keratin treatments (especially straightening treatments) require harsh chemicals to stabilise the keratin and create the smoothing effect
Cost-cutting processes:
Some manufacturers used cheaper, lower-quality processes to reduce costs
Poor quality control:
Inadequate testing meant nitrosamines went undetected until EU investigations
Heat application:
The heat used to seal keratin treatments can amplify nitrosamine formation if the base formula isn't properly formulated
Result: Nitrosamines accumulated in the final product at levels significantly exceeding safety thresholds
Understanding the Difference: Topical Treatments vs. Oral Supplements
This distinction is absolutely critical for your safety and decision-making.
Topical Keratin Treatments (Higher Risk Category)
What they are:
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Brazilian blowouts and keratin smoothing treatments
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Professional salon products applied directly to hair and scalp
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Left-in creams, serums, and treatments
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Typically require heat to activate or seal
How nitrosamines enter:
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Chemical stabilisation agents used in formulation
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Heat application during treatment
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Poor manufacturing controls
Exposure pathway:
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Absorbed through scalp skin
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Inhaled during application (especially in poorly ventilated salons)
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Cumulative with repeated treatments (every 2-3 months)
Risk level:
Higher, especially with frequent use, poor ventilation, and products from unregulated manufacturers
Oral Keratin Supplements (Lower Risk Category)
What they are:
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Capsules or powders containing Functional Keratin™
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Ingested as dietary supplements
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Pass through digestive system
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No topical application or heat involved
Why nitrosamines are less likely:
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No chemical stabilisation required (capsules provide stability)
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No heat activation or sealing needed
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Digestive enzymes break down compounds before absorption
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Regulated as dietary supplements with stricter standards
Quality control is standard:
Reputable supplement manufacturers use third-party testing for contaminants, including nitrosamines
Risk level:
Lower, especially with third-party tested products and from compliant manufacturers
The Real Danger: Which Products Should You Actually Avoid
High-Risk Products (Proceed With Caution)
1. Professional Keratin Straightening Treatments:
Brazilian blowouts, keratin relaxers, and similar salon treatments from unknown or unregulated brands
2. Budget Salon Products:
Cheap keratin treatments sold online or through unregulated channels, especially from outside Europe
3. Products Without Third-Party Testing:
Any topical keratin treatment that doesn't provide independent lab testing for nitrosamines
4. DIY or Non-Professional Keratin Treatments:
Home-use keratin smoothing kits without proper safety certifications
Safer Alternatives
Professional treatments from reputable salons:
Ask about their nitrosamine testing and EU compliance before treatment
Oral keratin supplements (like Functional Keratin™):
Third-party tested, no topical application risk
Shampoos and conditioners:
Generally safe, as they don't require harsh chemical stabilisation
Natural hair care products:
Look for sulfate-free, naturally-derived formulas without chemical stabilisation agents
How to Verify Product Safety: Your Checklist
For Topical Keratin Treatments
Before you use ANY topical keratin treatment:
Ask for third-party testing:
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Request certificates of analysis showing nitrosamine levels
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Verify testing was done by an accredited independent lab (not the manufacturer)
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Confirm results are below 50 ppb (EU standard)
Check regulatory compliance:
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Does the product comply with EU regulations?
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Is it available and legal in Europe? (If banned there, should raise red flags)
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Has it been recalled in any major markets?
Research the brand:
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How long has the company been in business?
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Do they have a solid reputation and transparent testing practices?
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Can you contact them for safety information?
Ask your salon:
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Where do they source their products?
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Can they provide safety documentation?
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How often do they test for contaminants?
For Oral Keratin Supplements
Look for:
Third-party testing verification:
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Certificates of analysis specifically showing nitrosamine testing
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Testing by recognised labs (NSF, USP, ConsumerLab)
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Published results showing levels below 50 ppb (ideally much lower)
Brand transparency:
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Detailed ingredient lists
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Manufacturing location and standards
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Available customer support for safety questions
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Published clinical research on their specific product
Regulatory compliance:
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Registration with relevant authorities (FDA in USA, TGA in Australia, etc.)
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Clear labelling and usage instructions
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No unsubstantiated health claims
Where Kiri10 Stands on Safety
Our Commitment to Nitrosamine-Free Products
Kiri10's keratin supplements are rigorously tested and verified safe:
Independent lab testing:
Kiri10's Functional Keratin™ is third-party tested for nitrosamines
Exceptional safety record:
Results consistently come back at less than 1 ppb, which is 50 times stricter than EU cosmetic law standards
Why we exceed standards:
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Our Functional Keratin™ is extracted naturally using patented technology
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No harsh chemical stabilisation agents are used
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We source from regeneratively farmed New Zealand sheep
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Every batch undergoes rigorous quality control and testing
Our Manufacturing Standards
Compliance:
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Meet or exceed EU Commission standards
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Comply with New Zealand Health and Safety regulations
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Follow FDA guidelines for dietary supplements
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Tested by accredited independent laboratories
Transparency:
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Full ingredient disclosure
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Available testing certificates upon request
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Verifiable supply chain from farm to finished product
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Responsive customer support for safety questions
What This Means for You
When you take Kiri10's Functional Keratin™, you can be confident that:
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Your supplement has been independently tested for nitrosamines
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Levels are significantly below any safety threshold
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You're receiving a product manufactured under strict quality controls
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You're supporting a company committed to transparency and safety
Making Safe Choices: Your Hair Health and Safety Matter
The Bottom Line on Topical Keratin Treatments
If you choose to use topical keratin treatments (like Brazilian blowouts or salon smoothing treatments):
Do:
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Request third-party testing certificates before treatment
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Ask about nitrosamine levels and EU compliance
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Choose reputable, established salons with transparent practices
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Research the specific product brand and any recalls
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Ensure proper ventilation during treatment application
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Space treatments out (don't do them every month)
Avoid:
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Budget or unknown brands without testing
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Products sold through unregulated online channels
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Treatments at salons that can't provide safety information
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DIY home kits without professional guidance
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Salons with poor ventilation
The Case for Oral Keratin Supplements
Functional Keratin™ supplements offer significant advantages for safety and effectiveness:
Safety profile:
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No topical application risk
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Third-party tested for nitrosamines
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Levels far below safety thresholds
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No chemical stabilisation needed
Effectiveness:
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43% reduction in hair loss in clinical studies
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17.61% improvement in hair cortex integrity
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10.1% increase in skin elasticity
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Results visible within 60-90 days
Convenience:
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Daily capsule with no salon visits
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No waiting time between treatments
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Supports hair health from the inside out
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Works continuously (not just during or after treatment)
References and Further Reading
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Nitrosamines in Cosmetics - European Commission - Official EU regulatory standards and findings
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Nitrosamine Risk Assessment - FDA - US regulatory guidance on nitrosamines
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IARC Nitrosamine Classification - International Agency for Research on Cancer - Scientific classification of nitrosamine cancer risk
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Effect of keraGEN IV Keratin Oral Supplementation - Lincoln Agritech - Clinical study on Functional Keratin™ safety and efficacy
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Third-Party Testing for Supplements - ConsumerLab - Information on supplement testing standards
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KiriGlow Keratin Supplement - Kiri10 - Tested, verified keratin supplement
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Cosmetic Product Safety - Therapeutic Goods Administration - Australian regulatory standards
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